Cinque Terre
Day 5: Arrival in the Cinque Terre
After departing Varenna at 8 and stopping for lunch at an Auto-Grill, we took the train into Monterosso al Mare. We stayed at the Punta Mesco hotel in the new city, but spent most of our time in the old part of town. It just depends on what your cup of tea is as to which part of town you like better. We did Rick's self-guided walking tour and then walked up to the old monastery and castle remains.
For dinner, we went to a small place recommended in Rick's book, Il Casello. It was our second choice, after another place in the book was full. It ended up being great luck because we loved Il Casello. The food was delicious and affordable. The staff was kind and accommodating. As another strike of luck would have it, we got there just as a couple was leaving and were seated at the most unbelievable table. Like the picture below? We took it from our table at dinner! In case you are curious, we had the swordfish and the pesto pasta. Both divine.
Day 6: Here, There, Everywhere in the Cinque Terre
Ok folks, get your rest the night before because boy o boy did we have a full, fun day. In this slice of paradise, everywhere you turn is another path to explore and a site to see. One of the hardest parts of the day was putting the camera down because we wanted to capture every moment of this beautiful day!
The first boat out of Monterosso al Mare was at 10, but the boat was packed so we so we instituted the number 1 rule in travel: be flexible. We paid a couple euros and took the train out to the furthest town away, Riomaggiore. We slowly worked our way back towards Monterosso al Mare by boat, stopping at each town. Manarola was one of our favorite stops. The self-guided walking tour leads you up through the town and ends at the town square high above the harbor. It was once used to look out for pirates, but now you can use it to watch tourist invade the town instead! It serves as a resting spot for tourists and locals alike. After admiring the art by the master of the Cinque Terre in the church on the square, we wandered up some steps to the "non-touristy" area. We were literally the only tourists walking around here...amazing.
The first boat out of Monterosso al Mare was at 10, but the boat was packed so we so we instituted the number 1 rule in travel: be flexible. We paid a couple euros and took the train out to the furthest town away, Riomaggiore. We slowly worked our way back towards Monterosso al Mare by boat, stopping at each town. Manarola was one of our favorite stops. The self-guided walking tour leads you up through the town and ends at the town square high above the harbor. It was once used to look out for pirates, but now you can use it to watch tourist invade the town instead! It serves as a resting spot for tourists and locals alike. After admiring the art by the master of the Cinque Terre in the church on the square, we wandered up some steps to the "non-touristy" area. We were literally the only tourists walking around here...amazing.
Reverse, reverse! The opposite direction of this "non-touristy haven" is the start of the vineyard walk. It could be more accurately described as a vineyard climb because it ain't for sissies! But it is worth it! We hiked higher and higher in the vineyards, and the higher we went, the better the views.
In Vernazza, the only town with a natural harbor, we watched the locals on their boats coming in and out of the harbor with their families. There is also an old castle and cemetery to explore.
Next time we come, we are are going to hike from town to town. We weren't able to this time because the trails were closed. You can read more about why in Rick's book on the region, but it has to do with a big flood with mud and a little corruption. Presto pesto! The region is famous for it's pesto. One of the best meals Kristin's had while traveling was a pesto lasagna that was handmade for them on her last Rick Steves' trip to the Cinque Terre. With that meal in mind, we sampled all the pesto dishes we could find. Tonight was no different. We had a wonderful pesto pasta. |